Types Of Linen (25 of them!)

Have you become obsessed with linen fabric lately? Are you wondering about what all these different types of linen are and how they are used? And more importantly, which one is best for your sewing project?

Then you’ve come to the right place! In this guide, we’ll explore the different types of linen and their different uses, so you can choose the right linen for your sewing project!

The main things the different types of linen have in common are that they are very strong and can last a LONG time – and in my opinion, actually get better with time.

And I confess – I’m obsessed!  Linen clothing is my favorite to sew, wear and use.  I love my me-made linen tops and wide leg trousers for the hot summer months and I’m obsessed with my linen duvet covers in winter (so are my cats!). 

I’ve also wasted a bit of money buying the wrong types of linen for my sewing projects, in fact that’s why I started researching this article! 

So I wanted to share what I’ve learnt with you, to help you avoid making the same mistakes as me and avoid filling your precious fabric stash with linen you won’t use.

Affiliate Link Disclosure: The links on this page may be affiliate links, from which I earn a small commission if you click on them, at no extra cost to you. Hope you find the information here useful. Thanks!

The 25 Types Of Linen

All linen is made by processing and spinning flax fiber. What gives the different types of linen their names, are the different weaving techniques used to make them and also their different textures.

This is different to other fabrics, like cotton for example, which is named things like like poplin, voile etc.

Each type of linen has different characteristics, which we’ll get into soon but the 4 most common types of linen are:

1. Damask Linen
2. Closely-Woven Linen
3. Loose Weave Linen
4. Plain Weave Linen.

Linen is also sometimes talked about based on its weight:

1. Lightweight linen
2. Medium-weight linen
3. Heavy (or heavyweight) linen

Types Of Linen: The Full List

1. Damask Linen (Also Known As Jacquard Linen)
2. Closely-Woven Linen
3. Plain Weave Linen
4. Loose Weave Linen (Also Known As Open Weave Linen)
5. Huckaback Linen (Also Known As Waffle Or Honeycomb Linen)
6. Holland Linen
7. Cambric Linen
8.  Butcher’s Linen
9. Sheeting Linen
10. Stonewashed Linen
11. Toweling Linen
12. Mélange Weave Linen
13. Bird’s Eye Linen
14. Suiting Linen
15. Shirting Linen
16. Belgian Linen
17. Irish Linen
18. European Vs Other Types Of Linen
19. Loosely-woven vs Tightly-woven linen
20. Types of Linen Blends
21. Linen And Cotton Blend
22. Linen And Polyester Blend
23. Linen And Rayon Linen Blend
24. Linen And Wool Blend
25. Linen And Silk Blend

Ok, let’s get into nitty gritty of the different types of linen!

Damask Linen (Also Known As Jacquard Linen)

Damask linen is THE choice for creating elegant and luxurious items. It’s has a tight weave made up of lots of layers of thread making it quite thick and also lustrous (as in, kind of shiny). 

It’s woven on a jacquard loom (this is the reason it’s also sometimes known as “jacquard linen”), which produces the unique pattern, which contrasts light and dark threads.

These patterns also feature detailed designs like flowers, scrolls, or other shapes that create eye-catching designs which can be seen on both sides of the fabric.  In fact, it’s the only linen which has a reversible pattern.

It’s often used for clothing like structured formal gowns and jackets.

Typical 2 coloured Damask / Jacquard pattern

Closely-Woven Linen

Closely-woven linen, which is also sometimes called sheeting linen, has a tight or close weave (as in the threads are woven more tightly and closely together).

It’s a good choice for trousers or jackets, as its soft and not textured but holds its shape well and is resistant to wear and tear.

Closely woven linen suit jacket

Plain Weave Linen

Plain woven linen is a strongest and most durable type of linen even though it is still quite loosely woven, thanks to the single warp and weft combination. 

All this means is that is that the threads are woven together with one going underneath, then the other going over the top in a criss-cross pattern. (see image below)

Plain woven linen is often used in cleaning, for example to make reusable napkins, hand towels, dish towels and even (or rather especially) cloths to polish glassware. Which is why its also known as “glass toweling”.  

Think of those typical red and white or blue and white stripes or checkered tea towels – that is the perfect example of plain weave linen. 

There are some specific types of plain weave linen like “Huckaback linen”, “Holland linen” and “Cambric linen” which I’ll talk about in more detail below.

Warp (lengthwise), Weft (horizontal)

Loose Weave Linen (Also Known As Open Weave Linen)

Loose or open weave linen, as it’s also known, is made just as the name sounds.

The threads are woven together more “loosely” or, in other words, with more open space between the threads.

This type of weave gives open weave linen garments and products a really good drape.

All of those “openings” between the threads allow a lot of air to flow around, making this type of linen fabric a great option for light clothing, shawls, lightweight curtains.

It is also good for utilitarian things like reusable diapers, napkins and sanitary towels as, as well as being breathable, it’s also absorbent but maybe not as long lasting as more closely woven linen.

Loose Weave Linen

Huckaback Linen (Also Known As Waffle Or Honeycomb Linen)

Huckaback linen is, like all linen, durable and sturdy fabric. It’s usually used for making towels and even dressing-gowns. 

Its name comes from the “huckaback” weaving pattern which has a unique texture made by how the warp and weft threads are woven together to create an almost 3D type of texture and pattern.

Patricia Baines, author of several books on linen and flax, has said that this pattern creates an uneven surface, making it more absorbent and this is what gets you dryer quicker.

Huckaback towels are great for smaller spaces, like apartments, as they take up way  less space than normal cotton towels. They’re also great for squishing down in your car boot to take to the beach. 

My sister who lives in a small apartment in the city has a few of these types of towels and they really do feel like luxury item to dry yourself off with!

Waffle / Honeycomb Linen

Holland Linen

Holland linen is a heavy and tightly woven type of linen. It has a smooth finish. It’s thick, strong and hard-wearing.

It’s usually used for furniture coverings and curtains and even insulation, tags and labels. It can be treated with oil and starch to make it opaque and it’s sometimes used for lampshades.

This type of linen has a characteristic “shine” because of how it’s woven which gives it an “elegant” look. This “glazed” finish makes it great for heavy curtains with lots of drape.

According to Melissa Albert a journalist and writer for Britannica, Holland Linen gets it’s name from where it was originally made – Holland!

Holland Linen Lamp Shade

Cambric Linen

Cambric linen was originally always linen fabric and came from Cambrai, France (hence its name), but now it is usually made from plain cotton fabric (not linen).

It’s lightweight, plain-weave and soft and sometimes it has one slightly glossy side. When the cambric fabric is lower quality it has a brighter and smoother finish.

It’s easy to wash, so thanks to this and its lightweight feel, it’s great for making handkerchiefs, slips, nice underwear, women’s shirts, dresses and nightwear.

 Butcher’s Linen

Butcher’s linen is a plain-weave linen, that’s heavy, stiff and rough to the touch. 

It was first used to make butcher’s and waiter’s aprons and jackets. Later on it started to be used for making the backings for starched shirt fronts and even for dresses.

Sheeting Linen

You can probably tell by the name that sheeting linen is used for making sheets!  And because it’s used for sheets, its WIDE! This light-weight linen is also used to make towels and sometimes even clothes, like dresses.

Like all light-weight linen fabric, its breathable, meaning it lets the air around, so it’s great for letting your mattress (and you) breath during the hot summer months.

Stonewashed Linen

Stonewashed linen literally means that the linen is pre-washed with stones (or enzymes) before being made into the final product.

The linen is washed in industrial sized washing machines with volcanic stones, pumice or enzymes. The impact of the stones on the linen softens it up and fades the colour. It also gives the linen a beautiful drape (meaning it hangs really nicely).

Enzymes are used in place of stones sometimes to protect the fabric from damage.ca

My cats (and I) love our stonewashed linen duvet covers

Toweling Linen

Toweling linen is for, drum roll please!  Making towels and anything towel-like – like washcloths and hand towels.

This linen is thicker and more absorbent than sheeting linen (obviously!) and is sometimes mixed with cotton.

Mélange Weave Linen

Mélange means “mix” in French. So as you can imagine, when it’s used to describe linen, it refers to a mix of colours.

Different coloured threads are woven together to create different types of patterns, which are often not symmetrical. (the below photos are of a pair of Mélange weave linen trousers I was in the middle of making (I just had to add the waistband and hem them)

In the middle of making my Mélange weave linen self drafted trousers, based off my favorite RTW trousers

Bird’s Eye Linen

Bird’s Eye linen is a type of twill weave.

It gets its name from the pattern: small diamond shapes with dots in the middle.  This design actually gives this type of linen a more textured look and feel and means bird’s eye linen wrinkles less than other linen fabrics.

This “classic” design is usually used to make items you’ll find around your home or in a hotel – curtains or bedspreads for example.

In my opinion it looks quite old fashioned and takes me straight back to the 90s (sorry, not sorry! ;)).

Suiting Linen

Suiting linen is a medium weight linen and comes in different weaves.  It’s used specifically for light suits, jackets, skirts, dresses, shirts and aprons.

Like pretty much all linen, It’s strong, durable, absorbent, breathable and of course wrinkles very easily.

It’s used a lot in hot climates to stay cool, like in the Mediterranean and Miami.  

Shirting Linen

Shirting linen is a lightweight, slightly textured fabric that’s often used to make shirts. Like suiting linen it’s breathable and absorbent, which means it’s comfortable to wear in warmer climates.

I love linen shirts, especially for men, as they look casual but elegant. They also get better with washing and wear as they become soft and start to mold to your body without being clingy.

Here’s me in my favorite lilac French linen shirt that I got for a steal at a thrift store.

One of my best thrift shop finds – a French linen shirt in my size! (not my child)

Belgian Linen

Belgian linen is actually a registered trademark!

The Belgian Flax and Linen Association registered it in 1960. They’re a trade association that represents more than 1,000 artisans and companies that grow and/or make “flax” products in Belgium.

To be able to use the trademark, the association states that “the linen fabric must be woven in a Belgium based mill” and that “at least 85% of the weight of the fabric must consist of flax grown in the EU”. They must follow other strict quality standards as well.

It’s a heavy-weight fabric that’s made from 100% flax fibers. It has a natural, slightly rough texture and usually comes in off-white or ivory hues.

This type of linen is can be used to make curtains, tablecloths, bedding and upholstery items and even canvases for artists, thanks to its durability.

Belgian linen is similar to suiting and shirting linen in terms of its breathability and absorbency. However, it’s much heavier than these two types of linen fabrics, making it better suited for items that are exposed to wear and tear. It’s also not as stiff or glossy as shirting linen, so it may be less suitable for clothing items.

Read more about the history of Belgian linen on the association’s site. It’s fascinating!

Irish Linen

Irish linen has been used to make clothing and home furnishings since the 16th century and is well-known for its high quality.  At one time Ireland was the center of linen production for Western Europe but now it’s very uncommon and for that reason an expensive option (most linen is now imported from the east of Europe and China).

Most of the raw material (i.e. flax) used to produce Irish linen these days comes from France, Belgium and the Netherlands.

If a company wants its linen to carry the Irish Linen Guild logo, the fabric must be must be made with 100% flax fibers. It also must be woven/spun in Ireland. It can’t just be bleached, died and finished there. 

Irish linen can however be cut and sewn in another country, as long as the fabric itself was produced in Ireland.

So if a linen product carries the guild trademark you know its real Irish linen – the price tag will also give you a clue 😉 as it’s VERY expensive!

Linen that’s woven in Ireland is mostly plain linen for exclusive and top quality apparel. There is even less Damask linen being produced, and when it is, it’s for luxury top of the line products which are often made to measure for clients. 

Thomas Ferguson & Co Ltd is an example of one of these companies. They are the only remaining jacquard, Irish linen weavers in Ireland.  They sell special gifts and beautiful home-ware such as kitchen and table linens & bed linen.

European Vs Other Types Of Linen

European linen, no matter where it is woven, is usually made from flax grown in three places – France, Belgium and Holland (The Netherlands). It can also be grown in places like Tuscany, Italy and Ireland but on a much smaller scale.

Linen products produced in China, also often come from flax grown in the three main European flax growing countries mentioned above. 

In fact China imports HALF of the total amount of European flax produced, according to Magali-An Berthon, a Textile Historian, Lecturer, and Documentarist at the University of Copenhagen. 

The reason Chinese linen is usually cheaper than European linen is because production costs are lower than in Europe.

Flax is also grown in other places around the world, like the United States, Russia, China, Japan and even New Zealand and Australia. There is even a small amount grown in India according to the life sciences journal Current Biotica.  

However, these crops may not necessarily be used to create linen, in the example of the USA and Canada it’s often used for flax seed production.

My handmade, French linen Ashton top from Helen’s Closet. Fully French seamed. (My cats love to “help” me sew)

Loosely-woven vs Tightly-woven linen

Loose weave linen is usually lightweight and has a slightly rough texture. These types of linen fabrics are perfect for casual tablecloths or summer garments as they’re airy and breathable.

Tightly-woven linen fabrics tend to be heavier and more durable, making them ideal for things like curtains, bedding and upholstery.

Types of Linen Blends

Blended Linen is made with other natural or man-made fibers to make clothes and housewares more suitable to different uses, climates and budgets. 

The blends help you get the best of both worlds and stop some of the less likable aspects of linen – think less wrinkles & lower cost for example.

Linen And Cotton Blend

Linen and cotton blends are a mix of linen and cotton fibers that create fabrics with the strength of linen and the softness of cotton. By adding cotton, the linen is less likely to wrinkle and crease too.

Linen and cotton blends are available in different weights and textures and can be lighter than pure linen fabrics.

Blended cotton and linen fabric is breathable, lightweight, absorbent and durable and is great for clothing, like shirts, dresses, trousers and even jackets.

Linen And Polyester Blend

Linen and polyester blends create fabrics with the strength of linen and the easy care of polyester – less wrinkles anyone?

Adding polyester also brings the cost down.

This blend can be used to make anything from clothes (shirts, tops etc) to curtains!

Linen And Rayon Linen Blend

Linen/rayon linen blends have the breathability and strength of linen and the drape of rayon.

This mix makes it perfect for clothing that’s soft and drapes beautifully but that can take a beating.  

Linen And Wool Blend

Linen and wool blends give you a strong and breathable fabric thanks to the linen but that’s a lot warmer than pure linen, because of the wool.

This blend is often used to make items like blankets, scarves, sweaters and rugs as it has great insulation.

Linen And Silk Blend

Linen and silk blended fabrics take advantage of strength of linen and the shine and smoothness of silk.

This blend is often used to make items like blouses, skirts, evening gowns and accessories as it provides a luxurious look while still being lightweight.

The combination of linen and silk also makes the fabric more durable than pure silk, making it ideal for creating clothes that you won’t be so afraid to wear!

Types Of Linen FAQ

Have more questions about linen and types of linen? I have the answers!

What Is Linen Fabric?

Linen fabric is an extremely strong and durable textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. These flax fibers are spun and woven to produce the final product, which dates back to ancient times.

Today, its still a popular fabric used in clothing, cleaning, bedding, upholstery, and home decor items.

Which Linen Is Best For Clothes

The best type of linen for clothing, depends on what you’ll use it for.  If you live in a hot climate then light-weight linen is best.  If you have a formal event to attend, then damask linen is the best choice thanks to its elegance and structure.

My hand-made and self-drafted, mid-weight linen, wide legged culottes

Which Linen Is Best For Hot Climates?

Light-weight and/or open weave linen is the best choice for hot climates because its lightweight and breathable. It helps keep you cool by allowing air to circulate around your body. Linen also dries and absorbs moisture quickly, making it an ideal fabric for staying comfortable in warm weather. 

Why Is 100% Linen Good For Clothing And Other Things?

100% linen is a great choice for clothing and other items because it’s breathable and highly absorbent. Linen is one of the strongest fabrics which means it can last for years and actually gets better over time, if you take care of it.

What Type of Linen Is Best For Bedding?

Sheeting linen is the best type of linen for bedding.  It is a very wide fabric, making it perfect for sheets.  It’s incredibly durable and can be machine washed.  It will just get better over time too, becoming softer and more cozy.

Is Linen Fabric Easy To Clean?

Yes! linen is easy to clean. Just make sure you wash your linen in cold water and either hang it up to dry or if you must dry it in a clothes dryer, do it on a low setting. 

I have heaps of information on how to clean linen and not shrink it.

What Are The Main Properties Of Linen?

Linen fabric’s main properties are its:

• Durability – doesn’t wear-out over time – in fact in my opinion it gets better with time
• Strength – 2 to 3 times stronger than cotton
• moisture-wicking – drys quickly and super absorbent
• Comfort
• Breathablity – lets the air circulate – so great for clothes, bedding and even curtains
• Wrinkles – the one potential downside – if this bothers you, try a linen-polyester blend or birdseye linen 

What Is Heavy Linen Called?

Heavy linen is called different things, depending on the type of linen it is. For example:

• Sheeting linen 
• Linen canvas
• Linen twill
• Damask linen

What Are Some Common Uses For Linen?

Some common uses for linen include:

1. Table-linens – napkins, table cloths, table runners
2. Clothing – dresses, skirts, suits, pants, skirts, even formal-wear, when made of damask linen for example 
3. Bedding – sheets, duvets, pillowcases etc.
4. kitchen and bathroom towels – towels, hand towels and facecloths, tea towels
5. Upholstery – couches, chairs, lampshades
6. Curtains 

Is Linen Fabric Expensive?

Yes, linen fabric is one of the most expensive fabrics in the world!

According to Sewport, textile industry experts, the cost of linen fluctuates between $5 and $12 per yard.

Why Is 100% Linen So Expensive?

100% linen is more expensive than other fabrics because it’s a natural material made from flax fibers, which are difficult to process and require a lot of labor to produce. In other words it takes much longer to harvest and weave than cotton for example.

Now that you know about all sorts of linen fabric types and can see what a versatile fabric it is, it should be easier for you to choose the right linen fabric for your sewing project! Whether it’s a dress, tablecloth or curtains.

Each linen fabric type offers its own unique benefits and properties. From lightweight, casual stonewashed linen to heavy and luxurious damask linen, there’s something perfect for your sewing project!

With proper care, your linen fabric can last for years and even get better over time!

So why not get started sewing or wearing linen? You won’t regret it (sheeting linen is a great beginner sewing fabric btw)! 

Let me know what types of linen you’ve used in the past or plan on using in the comments or send me an email or DM. I love to hear about your sewing projects and plans!

Types Of Linen: Related Posts

• Does Linen Shrink? Yup! How To Avoid (Or Shrink It On Purpose)